Every Sunday, from the crack of dawn, Tristán Narvaja Street comes alive with fair vendors, artisans, and collectors, all preparing to welcome hundreds of visitors and curious onlookers in a collective ritual. This bustling scene is a captivating blend of Montevideans and tourists, each adding their own unique flavor to this distinctive experience. For many, it's the highly anticipated weekend outing they've been looking forward to, while for others, it's a sporadic stroll that sparks the curiosity of passersby.
Much like the eccentric and unpredictable nature of Santos Discépolo's "Cambalache," Tristán Narvaja's fair is a realm of oddities and peculiarities. Here, you can stumble upon the most unexpected and implausible objects imaginable. It's a journey through time, where the worth of an item is often defined by the desire of the buyer. Although it originally began as a fruit and vegetable market in the early 20th century, over time, it transformed into what we now know as a lively "flea market."
From the Center of Photography of Montevideo Archive (CDF). Date: 1920.
(Yaro Street Fair, now Tristán Narvaja, Cordón neighborhood)."
Today, Tristán Narvaja Fair has evolved far beyond its early years...
Along Avenida 18 de Julio, you'll find an elderly, blind musician sitting on weathered cardboard, pouring his heart into the melancholy notes of his bandoneon. Amidst this eclectic mix, puppies, cold-water fish, and endangered sea turtles share space with seasonal plants and flowers, painting the gray sidewalk with vibrant hues.
The once-bustling fruit and vegetable stalls of Tristán Narvaja now witness a market slowly shedding its layers before the eyes of both locals and travelers. Here, you'll find dulce de leche slippers and traditional campaign cookies making room for stalls peddling rough copies of original CDs, without a hint of discomfort. T-shirts adorned with iconic images of the Beatles and Che Guevara hang nearby an aging wooden gate, while just a few steps away, you can indulge in peanuts, almonds, raisins, and prunes sold by weight.
A striking sight not to be missed is the stall located in front of the bar on Colonia and Tristán Narvaja Street, featuring a lively assortment of chickens, ducks, parrots, canaries, and rabbits, their cages stacked high, creating an irresistible visual and auditory spectacle that captivates even those with the least interest in the world of "bicheros" (animal enthusiasts).
On the corner of Tristán Narvaja and Uruguay Streets, you'll discover the "Ilion" bookstore, a treasure trove of books from bygone eras. Here, literary gems like "The German" by Jon Latimer and "Battle for Rome 1944" by Lloyd Clark find their place. A gray cat, with deep and watchful eyes, engages in a playful game of hopscotch, leaping from one book to another in the window display, captivating the attention of all who pause to gaze.
Just a few steps from this enchanting bookstore, where incense and hats are sold by Elena, you'll encounter a stall adorned with holy cards and angel callers. Here, the spiritual offerings extend to include figures like San Cayetano and the miraculous Virgin, which hold a special place in the daily lives of many.
The serene ambiance is momentarily disrupted by the captivating sounds of a group of tamborileras (drummers), who momentarily interrupt the meandering of visitors. People come to a halt, transfixed by the rhythm of the tamboriles (drums), creating a brief but mesmerizing pause in their journey.
Objects from the past spring to life in the memories of the many Uruguayans and foreigners who frequent the fair. Here, vinyl records by Roberto Carlos, Neil Sedaka, and Donato Raccalatti are neatly displayed in plastic crates, alongside Greta Garbo's biography, a vintage war helmet, antique coins, weathered milk bottles, nameless portraits, delicate silverware, and a well-worn copy of Goethe's book. This diverse array coexists harmoniously.
Amidst this eclectic scene, the scent of marijuana mingles with the aroma of varnished wood and incense from the stalls of hippie artisans and Rastafarian vendors, creating an unmistakable atmosphere. Nearby, the fried cake stand stands in contrast to wicker baskets, upholstery fabrics, and rural handicrafts.
As you stroll through the fair, it's not uncommon to encounter a peddler carrying a heavy wooden tray, offering sweet potato fries and delectable pastries to anyone who crosses their path. The tranquil early morning atmosphere gradually yields to the sweltering summer heat, and the streets become increasingly crowded. It's during this bustling time that opportunistic individuals, familiar with the fair's routine, begin their discreet "work," preying on distracted and unsuspecting visitors.
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